Who is this for?

If you're managing a commercial build-out or a renovation project and you're looking at Karndean flooring, you probably have a ton of questions. I manage purchasing for a mid-sized property management firm—about $200k annually across 15 vendors covering everything from paint to flooring. This is what I've learned after ordering Karndean for a dozen projects.

Where can I actually buy Karndean flooring?

This is the most common question I get. Karndean doesn't sell direct to end-users. They work through a network of distributors and authorized dealers. If I remember correctly, there are about 200+ distributor locations in the US alone.

I usually start by searching the "Where to Buy" tool on their website. But here's the thing—not all distributors are created equal for commercial buyers. Some are geared more toward residential contractors. The ones I've had the best luck with are the ones who can also supply the proper adhesives (like the Karndean DrySet adhesive) and have stock of the commercial-grade work order lines, not just the retail collections.

Pro tip: Call the distributor's commercial desk, not the counter sales line. The person at the counter might tell you they can order anything, but the commercial desk knows about lead times, pallet pricing, and job site delivery logistics.

What's the difference between the collections (Van Gogh, Knight Tile, etc.)?

Okay, this took me a while to wrap my head around. When I first started ordering, I thought Karndean was just one type of vinyl plank. I was wrong. Seriously wrong.

Here's the breakdown from what I've gathered:

• Van Gogh: This is their flagship line. It has a textured surface that looks way more like real wood than I expected. It's thicker (4.5mm or 5.5mm with attached underlayment) and has a rigid core in some versions. The wear layer is 20 mil, which is solid for commercial traffic areas. We used this in a high-end office lobby—looks great after 18 months.
• Knight Tile: This is more rigid core, structured for glue-down or click installation. The designs mimic stone and tile. I'd say this is their workhorse for commercial spaces where you want tile aesthetics without the cold feel.
• Designflooring: This is a separate brand they own, and I think it sits slightly below the Van Gogh line in terms of premium feel. It's still good quality, but the texture isn't as deep.
• Korlok: This is their click-lock system. No glue needed. If you have a tight timeline, this is where I'd look. My only caution is that the click-lock planks can be slightly fussy if the subfloor isn't dead flat.
• Looselay: This is their loose-lay product. You just roll it out and the weight of the material holds it in place. Edges are glued. It's a super fast install—we did a 2,000 sq ft retail space in two days.
• Art Select: Honestly, I think this is their most premium visual collection. The patterns are more artistic. We used it in a boutique hotel project and the general contractor was really impressed.

The conventional wisdom is to just pick the one you like the look of. My experience with 10+ orders suggests that the installation method matters way more. If you have time and a prepared subfloor, glue-down is cheapest and most durable. If you need speed, Korlok or Looselay are your friends.

Should I use the Karndean DrySet adhesive?

Short answer: yes.

I only believed this after ignoring it on one project. We decided to save a few bucks by using a generic pressure-sensitive adhesive. Everything I'd read in the installation instructions suggested using the manufacturer-recommended adhesive, but the distributor said the generic stuff would work fine.

Well, they warned me about the risk of outgassing and curing issues. I didn't listen. After 6 months, we had some plank edges lifting in a south-facing room. Nothing catastrophic, but the client noticed and I had to coordinate a partial replacement—ate about $1,200 out of the project budget. (Should mention: the distributor later admitted they'd had other reports with that generic adhesive, so maybe I should have pressed harder for the full story before buying.)

The Karndean DrySet is a pressure-sensitive adhesive that reacts chemically with the backing of the flooring. It dries clear and doesn't stain. It's way more forgiving than the standard wet-lay adhesives. So, just use it. A ton of headaches saved.

What's the real total cost—beyond just the flooring?

This is where people get burned. The price per square foot for the flooring is just the start.

Based on our projects:

• Material: Van Gogh runs about $5.00–$6.50/sq ft for the plank. Knight Tile is similar. Korlok can be $5.50–$7.00/sq ft. Art Select is premium—think $7.00–$9.00/sq ft.
• Adhesive: Karndean DrySet runs about $0.80–$1.20/sq ft if you buy it by the 5-gallon pail.
• Subfloor prep: If your concrete slab has moisture issues (common in older buildings), you'll need a moisture mitigation system. That can add $1.50–$3.00/sq ft. We didn't anticipate this on one project and had to scramble—added 3 weeks to the schedule.
• Installation: Commercial installers around here charge $2.50–$4.00/sq ft for glue-down, and a bit more for click-lock. (Based on our last three bids, January 2025. Prices vary by market.)
• Trim and transitions: Don't forget T-moldings, reducers, and quarter round. Karndean makes matching ones, and they're not cheap. Budget about $0.50–$1.00 per linear foot for transitions.

So the all-in cost is roughly $9.00–$14.00/sq ft installed, depending on prep complexity. I wish I had tracked our margins more carefully across projects—my sense is the preparation work drives up cost more than the material selection.

By the way, we had one vendor who couldn't provide a proper itemized quote—they just gave me a number. Finance rejected it because we couldn't validate the individual line items for the capital request. That was a painful lesson: always ask for a breakdown before you get approval.

Is Karndean flooring really waterproof?

I want to be careful here because the marketing can be misleading. Karndean is water-resistant, not waterproof. The difference is subtle but important for commercial buying.

Water-resistant means it can handle spills and splashes without damage. The planks won't swell like wood or laminate. But if you have standing water or a flood event, water can seep through the seams and get trapped under the floor. That's where you get mold and delamination issues.

For most commercial spaces (offices, retail, hotel rooms), water resistance is fine. For bathrooms or wet areas, you should specify the loose-lay product with a welded seam—that gets you closer to waterproof. Or use a floor drain. I had one project where the plumbing under the floor failed. The Karndean was trashed in a 300 sq ft area. Insurance covered it, but we had to replace the whole room because the dye lot was discontinued.

So glad I had specified the loose-lay for that room—the replacement was way easier than if it had been fully glued down. Dodged a bullet there.

How do I make sure I order the right quantity?

This is the number one mistake I see with commercial buyers. It's a ton of money wasted on waste.

Here's my checklist after learning this the hard way:

1. Measure carefully: Measure the actual floor area, not the room dimensions. Subtract islands, columns, and built-in furniture.
2. Add waste: For a straightforward rectangular space, add 10-15% for glue-down, and 15-20% for click-lock (more cuts). For complex layouts with many angles or herringbone patterns, add 20-25%.
3. Order in full boxes: Most Karndean planks come in boxes of 20-30 sq ft. Don't break a box unless you have to. You can't return partial boxes, but some distributors accept full unopened boxes.
4. Keep one box back: Always keep an unopened box for future repairs. If you ever need to replace a damaged plank later, you won't be able to match the dye lot if it's been six months.

One project, the installer said we needed 10% waste. I thought that was low, but I trusted them. We ended up running short by 8 boxes—about $300 worth of material. That unreliable estimate made me look bad to my VP when the install got delayed by a week waiting for restocking. Now I always add a buffer.

What about maintenance—do I need special floor care products?

Yes, but it's not complicated.

Karndean recommends their own floor care line. The thing is, most commercial maintenance crews are used to cleaning tile or VCT with harsh stripping chemicals. Those can damage the urethane finish on luxury vinyl.

I pushed back on buying their cleaner initially—seemed like a money grab. Then I had one of our janitorial staff use a generic floor wax on a scrap piece of Van Gogh we had lying around. It left a dull haze. The Karndean cleaner (the pH-neutral one, not the spray-buff) is actually necessary if you want the floor to keep its gloss for 5+ years.

Oh, and don't let them use a buffer with a red pad. That will scratch it. Use a white or blue pad and the recommended cleaning solution. I put a maintenance guide in the building binder for every project now.

Any other pitfalls for commercial buyers?

A few things that cost me time and money:

• Lead times: Van Gogh is usually in stock, but some of the more niche patterns in Art Select or Knight Tile can have 4-6 week lead times. Always check before committing to a project timeline.
• Subfloor conditions: Karndean requires a very flat subfloor. The spec says no more than 3/16" over 10 feet. If yours isn't clean, you'll need self-leveling compound. That alone added $0.80/sq ft to one project.
• Acclimation: The planks need to sit in the conditioned space for 48 hours before installation. If your installer shows up and the material just arrived, that's a delay.
• Order a sample first: I heard about a property manager who ordered a whole floor without seeing a sample. The color looked completely different in the actual lighting conditions. Always order a sample. Most distributors will send one for the cost of shipping.

The best advice I have is to build a solid relationship with a distributor that has a commercial sales rep. The one I use now has saved me from multiple mistakes just by warning me when something doesn't make sense. That relationship consistency has been worth way more than nickeling and diming on a price comparison.